Boatyard: Convert a gunboat in cutter. Companies 
This summer, I found this wooden gunboat (made in China, I presume) in a discount store in the Paris region. This
rowboat and veil, was substantially the scale of Playmobil but it was not destiny that I reserved for him (because I no longer play at Playmobil (well. .. more formally)).
one amazing bill, it was entirely of wood, glued and assembled with precision, many hardware Brass and
many amenities. Obviously, the price was pretty
Therefore (65 euros).
Fortunately, given my plans, I dared to go see a saleswoman
to express my idea. It makes me a price and I took their exposure model, somewhat dilapidated!
The result was beyond my expectations: - 50%! That's what I
stop any hesitation.
It is with the model and € 32.50 in dilapidated unless I'm gone.
Since I was unable to complete my frigate in time for the huge party in Bordeaux on 9-10 October, I was going to settle for a smaller project (say I'm rather more modest, because my appetite for the details would look after a while.
short, firstly while ravaging . Remove all fittings,
benches, cannons, rigging, to make his Virginity
to this shell of 40 cm.
Eviction bottom. My cutter is designed to navigate on the table , I had to get rid 
all the vitals (I feel we will learn many words in that article!). So I asked my carpenter preferred to proceed to amputation.
First, he created a shoe to bring the whole level and made the cut on its top. Delicate and dangerous phase. He feared that the nails flush with the hull not tear it when cutting. The few that saw nails (faithful dog) were crossed Fortunately, toward the center of the hull and were cleanly decapitated.
That was when we saw that the ship was really well done. Real couples, a shell made of wooden slats curved, assembled / bonded (well embedded in the resin when same).
I do not know how long the Chinese have little to do this chain, but certainly much longer than me, to demolish everything.
He then had to raise the entire ship. 1 cm balsa and presto, the trick was done. A careful sanding to round forms and marry his original curves.
The top of rail:
It has been intersected on the back for a third get
line much closer to that of cutters that I got some pictures. I replaced it after having removed the castle. I also pierced the 14 ports.
The Bridge:
After defining the height I wanted for it, 
I bounded inside a bunker (which will remain secret, since no
read these lines, nor looks at the pictures)
then placed a cardboard floor. I wanted the deck of this ship tonight curved in both directions, the sheer (I told you said!) and move (hey, hey). (NDLA: The sheer of a vessel means the longitudinal curvature of the bridge, the transverse curvature is called moves). For the effect bulging in the middle, I rigged with 
balsa sanded.
My bridge will be slightly curved in the middle (+2 mm) in order to evacuate the seas and blood, the scuppers. (I told you we were going to learn words!)
I'm used to achieve a genuine floor over the frame.
The floorboards are 5 mm wide and 1 / 2 mm thick. They are quite fragile and I hope that this floor will age well. I interest to fasten it all with a lot of paint and abundant good "sticky".
bar:
No wheel on a small ship. I wanted her to be mobile
(no, it does not move the rudder!)
supports the axis will be hidden under the bench quarterback.
The bar is carved and polished, the axis a common nail.
(I knew that I could put in vulgarity to
one place or another!)
Shrouds:
I made a frame Lego (However, I no longer play the 
Lego either, at least in the official version) to tighten the two
lined shrouds. I never imagined how I'll be taking the lead to successfully scheduled nodes. Of the first 12 knots made, there are no two alike! and some were subsequently defeated, because too flush cut, despite the glue. I'm always trying to redo the same node, it took me many attempts before succeeding in creating the strict routine that allowed me to make regular and strong charge. It is clear, I am now become a champion of making handmade net and I could do for miles ... if it does not take much time.
The "dead eyes" (And come on, one more word to the c..!):
It was one of the most important obstacle that I faced on this site. I made a first attempt in hardwood forest drilled 2 mm. The holes were too big. Certainly, I would have easily spent the son but the whole was just too big. Second attempt balsa, easy to pierce the forest hand of 1 mm, but I quickly realized it would not withstand the test of strength (too fragile). Then I tried Fimo, Clay cooking. Unable to get something regular drilling and grooving in the circular.
run out of ideas, I'm tempted to fall back on my local hobby shop where they sell wonderful, ready-made plastic!
The store was closed for vacation. (The people do not really account for the inconsistency of their decisions! I have time to hold me if they think that her Majesty will be able to wait for the launch of its coast guard! Here is my project that is sinking! And then, of course, no number
emergency or store-of-model-d'astreinte in the corner). In short, being stuck on this step, I had to experiment with other things. I finally succeeded, after still a lot of breaks, to realize 24, who would serve me for the six guys, and that would allow me to ask my mast. Here's how I finally method:
steps: First, I cut small rectangle of hardwood, 3 mm thick (I read then they would have to be round that time so I start on the bases 
square). I drilled the 3 holes with a drill in hand before trimming and rounding the corners.
Finally, at the mill (Dremel my birthday) I dug the groove in the slice. I also enlarged the holes using the small strawberry cone, because I'm not even sure that I get to spend the son without incident.
anchor cables.
To recycle the short length of anchor chain, the initial model, I have wood trim in the "trunk" before, cut the string in half and share it to port and starboard (because there will be two anchors). I put a small nail to hold the end and then I replaced the metal eyelets of the original model.
then I gave a small floor over to hide the
all.
I do not know yet if I will add a windlass or capstan.
Here is the site to date.
J-26, there has still work!
We see that I set up one-chains, what makes me realize I'll probably have to redo my guys because my ratlines (one last word for the way ^ ^) will not be horizontal, seen as the chains are back in the morning.
So I started by tracing 
on which I used sandpaper and then I cut out the silhouette of the sloop (The painted part is the background wedges, accessible above. The floor paper mask an iron plate for magnetized. In addition, two layers of the base schedule, increase the height of these blocks, which can now accommodate standing figurines. ) 
Once rounded, the waves were covered with wood glue and toilet paper, applied with a brush. Once wet, it dissolves and can be "sculpted" easily. It also allowed me to plug the holes that we see along the waterline. 
