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Mumak Games Workshop ... I think.

That ... I finally finished my mumak , years after
started. I spent tens
hours on it because I wanted to redo a lot of details.

Firstly I redid all the draperies of Howdah. I actually thought they were too low and unrealistic in the original version.
other hand, I missed the aspect of "grunge" and ruined the film howdah in this beautiful figurine, but a little too neat.
short, so I stretched rope between the poles of the scaffolding and I disposed of howdah above, pieces of tissue paper cut in the shape of animal skins.

The flaps of skin and can therefore additional ropes dangle at your leisure and leave that much more gothic and irregular at all.





To find the atmosphere as the film and the savage attack against the Mumakil, I riddled with arrows.
These were made with steel pins, fine, which I cut head. The tails are made of paper, glued to the super glue.

I've prepared a little everywhere in the skin and trim the mumak howdah.
In fact, my mumak is a little tricky to handle because its "thorns" fairly fragile limit catches.





Howdah Details:
It shows details of stretched skins, ropes that I added, that the arrows hit.

packets ropes, triplets, were made on a wooden stand between two nails. The three strands of string Roasted were stretched between two nails and glued each set.
I have then cut the sections, although hard to place them at desired locations.




In front of the howdah, is the location of the head Mahud (the mahout who heads the monster).
To avoid that the figure falls at the slightest movement of the beast, I trimmed the plastic and inserted in its place, a metal washer, concealed under a piece of tissue paper, wallpaper. (See arrow).
The base, magnet, my head Mahud him pemetrra thus prevent many falls.


The base: was a nightmare to paint. With dead men and horses, weapons scattered, it took a lot of paint work.
I added over the coating, preserving areas which seemed interesting to keep as is. I've pasted the sand and pebbles.



Because of its mass, mumak was not obvious to take the stand, especially since his feet did not touch all the base properly. So I
mumak the screw on its base, from below.





I wide gash defenses of the animal, trace the many battles he has had to endure, to give them the same look as in the film. I also added
weapons defenses. They provide a vital extra die in combat in terms of game

For details of its implementation, see the next topic.














Detail of head, eye, base defenses ... and an arrow in the neck! A!

I painted the animal's skin with a model based paint light gray matte. Brushings gray beige, brown and even ... Green gave him that.










Here!
Are you ready to face the terrible burden of Mumak?

It would be almost painless, if those pesky archers Haradrim do not harass you, in addition, their poisoned arrows.

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weapons defenses for Mumak Games-Workshop.

To make the weapons of defense, I bought some string and used to roast a few matches.

By untwisting the string, I inserted the ends of matches, trimmed and cut to a point in the middle (see detail in the middle of the picture).










I let the string to resume its natural twist and pinch my songs, which I then glued.







stretched between two nails, I twisted several lengths of this "barbed wire" to do something more rough and irregular. It was left was to put in place and paste it between the defenses of Mumak.



Once set up, I added bits of wet toilet paper, to represent the shredded tatters of clothes unfortunate victims of the burden of mumak.
A little blood, and voila.

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Making hills for your gaming tables

To achieve these hills, I used
extruded polystyrene
recovery, 2 cm thick.
After being rudely
form to pyromellitic saw, I sanded
to round off the edges and
irregularities.
In my little pot, a mixture of ocher and green acrylic paints to get the tender green that I wanted. Fearing
still see the paint flaking and to improve adhesion to the polystyrene, I added the wood glue to the mixture. I therefore fully
whitewashes the surface of my hills green and let dry, like a primer.





Once the primer is dry, I repeated the operation, always with the same mixture. With wood glue, the viscosity of the mixture is important. My
flocking trays are ready, it remains only sprinkle the hill immediately after the application of this "coating" sticky.








Do not skimp on the flocking. Any excess will be recovered and recycled through the cardboard calendar on which I work. I had previously folded in two in order to form a trough and recover the precious flock. I will collect all the surplus that fall off the hill or to be dropped next.

Here this big hill, was coated and flocked in twice (which is not a good idea, then we see the junction)




Here are two small hills made sprayed with 2 color different.
To finish the job, I bomb satin varnish (Games-Workshop or otherwise) to improve the adhesion of the flocking. With two layers of paint underneath, polystyrene is protected and is not attacked by the solvent of the bomb. I realized

7 hills in a very short time and very easily. They are very light and it only remains for me to test their life situations.
Flocking is really well hung.